Shower tray replacement

Signs a tray needs replacing

One sign on its own may have another cause, but two or more together usually point to the tray.

• A visible crack, often near the waste or a corner
• A creak, dip or bounce when you step in
• Silicone that splits within weeks of being renewed
• Staining on the ceiling below after showers
• Water pooling instead of draining towards the waste

Cracks and flexing

Trays crack when they were never fully supported. A tray set on a few blobs of adhesive, or on a timber floor that moves, flexes every time someone stands in it, and eventually the material gives. Even a sound tray that flexes will pull away from the wall and tear the seal, letting water run behind the tiles and into the floor.

Waste and drainage problems

Slow draining can be a blocked trap, but it can also be a tray that has sunk so water no longer falls to the waste. A waste that leaks at the joint underneath is another common fault, and it is hidden until the ceiling below marks. When the tray comes out, the waste and trap are checked and normally renewed with the new tray, using the existing waste route.

Choosing a replacement tray

The new tray should match the footprint of the old one if you want to keep the surrounding tiles and screen. Stone resin trays are rigid and popular, while lighter acrylic capped trays rely more on their support. Check the waste position against the existing pipe, and choose a surface with some grip if anyone in the house is unsteady on their feet.

Low-profile trays

Many older enclosures have a deep tray on a raised plinth with a step up. A low-profile tray sits much closer to the floor and gives the look of a walk-in shower. Whether one can replace a deep tray depends on the space for the waste and trap underneath, which is checked at the survey rather than assumed.

What happens to the tiles and screen

Removing a tray usually disturbs the bottom row of wall tiles, and the screen normally has to come off to free the tray. If the tiles behind are loose or the board is wet, that area is stripped and made good before tiling again. Fitting the screen back onto a sound wall, with fresh seals, is part of the job rather than an extra.

Getting the base right

The tray must be fully supported across its whole base on a level, rigid surface, so it cannot flex at all. On timber floors that may mean adding boarding first. In the shower area, waterproofing behind the tiles and at the tray junction protects the wall if a seal ever fails, which our guide to wet room tanking explains. For the fitting itself, see our bathroom fitting service.